KOLKATA AT A GLANCE

Posted on 03/16/2016 | About Calutta, India

I was half expecting Kolkata to be a city of squalor and dilapidated buildings shrouded in a tropical cloak of decay. What I found instead was an explosion of vibrant colours and heady spices; bolts of silk in silver and azure and intricate hand-crafted gold jewellery. It’s a fusion of untouched history and heat; a sensory blast of classical Indian music and excited chat of 15-million people. For the most, Kolkata’s shabby streets and distressed buildings (spread over 676 square miles) remain untouched since its independence in 1947, but it does so in a vintage manner.

Kolkata was in economic stagnation until 2000, when the region had an IT industry boost. Now there’s a bizarre merge of old colonial structure, connected to one another via a cobweb of external cables, chaotic eclectic markets and sci-fi glass sky scrapers – all softened by tropical palms.

With no motorways and few sidewalks, pedestrians are forced to walk in the frenzied traffic which, in certain areas, is also shared by numerous farm animals. The ‘every man for himself’ rule applies here as there are no demarcated lanes and sparse traffic control, other than potholes. Perhaps the non-maintenance of public roads may be how the government addresses many of the issues associated with speed as, in all honestly, there’s little chance of exceeding 20 mph in most places.

Thus, surrounded by incessant tooting and road hazards of every description I quickly came to the conclusion that a visit to Kolkata was not a self-drive option and I recommend visitors hire an air-conditioned car and driver.  Daily rates start at Rs 1500 ($30) for car, including driver).

In three short days I glimpsed only a fraction of what India’s Cultural Capital had to offer, my guide, Ms Srabani Bhadury (srabanibhadury@gmail.com), ensured I experienced all and more I had on my wish-list - like the visually challenging Mullik Ghat Flower Market; the artistic quarter where I observed the makings of the goddess Kali. I also visited the ornate pink and lavender Jain temple; the College Street book bazaar where students buy and sell university text books; the watch district on Ezra Street’s Radha Bazaar; and the Armenian Church, hidden away amid the bustle of Old China Bazaar Street - claimed to be Kolkata's oldest place of Christian worship. I found gorgeous silk sari’s of the famous Bengali Baluchoris variety at the Haati Bazaar; and I briefly inserted myself into the mayhem of Bakshinayon arts and crafts market; then opted instead to have my hands tattooed with henna at the Grariahat market.

For super greeting cards, candles and screen printed stationery visit Ashalayam who funds the former street children who manufacture the goods on sale. Their store on Mirza Ghalib Street is divided into the two sections: one is for hand-made goods and the other is for coffee and cake. www.ashalayam.org.

Situated at a busy crossroads along Park Street (Kolkata’s equivalent to London’s Oxford Street) is Flurys (www.flurysindia.com), a little haven of art deco magnificence, sinful cakes and delectable treats where bow-tied waiters fuss and deliver the best High Tea in the city: ham and cheese tarts, chicken and mushroom quiche’s and chocolate boats; triple chocolate tart, pineapple fresh cream pastry, chocolate shortbread with chocolate drops and mud pie, plus a bottomless pot of Darjeeling for Rs 395 ($7.80). Leftovers are prettily boxed up.

At the Hotel Samilton, on Sarat Bose Road, is the Camellia Tea Bar (www.assamco.com/camellia), one of many throughout Kolkata, which serves tea cocktails such as spicy Thai-chai or Irish Tea with an ice-cream float. The menu ranges from an array of hot teas like Hot Buttered Apple Tea, Rose Petal Tea and Thai Chai along with popular choices like Darjeeling Tea and Masala Chai. The Cold Teas are fantastic - Apricotea, Wine Tea, Peach Litchi Surprise, Fire n Ice Tea, Tea Colada.

If you’ve not yet overdosed on tea you must rendezvous with other tea lovers at Dolly’s Tea Shop in Dakshinapan Shopping Complex, Gariahat Road South.  The décor is unfussy - the external façade depicts a thatched hut and inside bright lanterns light up walls which are lined with old tea boxes. But it’s the bizarre tea brews such as Tea Punch (laced with ginger ale and lemonade) and Tutti Frutti Tea (with fruit, ice-cream and jam) that have made Dolly’s the institution it is. Teas for gifting get an individual Dolly touch with jute, cane, bamboo and ceramic wrapping.

One floor up from Dolly’s, in the same complex, is Kashmir Arts Emporium who specializes in quality arts and crafts at good prices. (govt.handicraft.kolkatta@gmail.com).

The quay-side of Babu Ghat on the Hooghly River might look uninviting and murky, but it's holy to Hindus. The riverside ghats are interesting places for people watching, especially in the early morning or evening when die-hard followers bathe and make offerings.

The perversely fascinating Indian Coffee House on Bankim Chatterjee Street, was once the meeting place of radicals  - but now, its crusty ceilings and grubby walls ring only with deafening student dialogue. Similarly, the cavernous Broadway Bar, on Ganesh Chandra Avenue, looks like a setting from a Clark Gable movie, with ceiling fans and a grimy marble floor.

A visit to Hogg Market, the fresh food bazaar, before 8:00 am, when the stall holders begin putting out their wares, is a must. The timing, before the heat sets in, allows for calm appreciation of the colourful array of goods being laid out for purchase.

Many visitors to Kolkata pay respects at Mother Teresa's sombre tomb within the Sisters of Charity's Motherhouse. There's a tiny museum displaying Mother Teresa's tattered sandals and buckled enamel dinner-bowl. Upstairs, 'Mother's room' is preserved in all its simplicity with a crown-of-thorns above the humanitarian’s modest camp-bed.

Kolkata’s biggest addiction is religion, so your trip may well coincide with one of the numerous religious festivals. The roads are then especially busy and the festivals bring with them the usual merriment of fireworks, food stands, loud traditional music and folk dance performances, which all goes to making what is truly an incredible city.

Like cities around the world, there’s poverty. 

To Western eyes India’s is unspeakably wretched. But to Kolkatans who are infinitely proud, they make do by pulling together, particularly in the face of adversity, for a perceived common good. They will queue patiently for indefinite periods and accept with rare fortitude the imposition of rationing. They are comfortable with faceless bureaucracies and tolerant of dictatorships. They have a natural gift for making excellent jokes about authority without seriously challenging it. They find normality in chaos, yet always take a moment to exchange pleasantries.

Said an elderly Hindu monk who joined me in people watching: “The western world may have all the watches, but we have all the time.”

PARK HOTEL, KOLKATA

The Park Hotel is a member of the design hotels group and has a niche luxury urban identity of its own as its 149 rooms are all lavishly furnished, each with 21st century mod cons.

It’s entrance is a buffet of light and colour in velvety hues of crimson fading to lilac, white marble walls, silver leaf, sculptural ceiling lights of clear Perspex rods, violet silk drapes, rich mauve furniture and an aquarium wall of shimmering tropical fish.

From velvety chocolate drapes against chalk-white marble, to period Edwardian chairs on honey coloured carpet, my spacious contemporary suite was simply stunning. The range of luxury bath products was an especially nice feminine touch.

Of the numerous on-site restaurants, it was the aroma of searing steak that drew me to The Bridge, which is fresh and light in an indoor-outdoor style. Pale granite walls, dark timber floors, white retro furnishings and upholstery in avocado and teal create a sense of calm.  To one side is a window showcasing the inner workings of a wood fired pizza oven, adjacent to a mirrored wall which reflects both its own buffet table and the one across the room. A large glass door gives access to ‘Aqua’ the palm fringed terrace where a 17 metre long waterfall makes it a perfect location for a romantic el fresco dinner.

It’s universally accepted by all foodies that to taste authentic food you need to go to the region it originates from, which is clearly what drew the mostly local patrons. Chef Japvir Vohra, who took time to exchange pleasantries with of his dinner guests, clearly has a following and after sampling one of his Bengali butterflied prawn curry’s (Rs850  ($17)) I could see why. I could not decide between two mouth-watering deserts so I had them both - a thick and creamy olive oil ice cream with a sweet balsamic drizzle and almond biscuit (Rs325 ($6.40)) and a Monsoon in Chocolate (Rs475 ($9.50)) ‘That’s our signature desert,’ says Chef Vohra. ‘It represents soil, grit, mud, warmth and cold, as well as a fallen branch – just like Kolkata during the monsoon season.’

After an exhausting day I opted out of drinks in the glamorous Roxy Cocktail Lounge, as well as Someplace Else, an English styled pub. Not even Tantra – one of the city’s hottest nightclubs could lure me. Instead I visited Aura, the Park Hotel’s award-winning luxury spa where I was plucked, clipped, threaded, painted, massaged, washed and blow-dried – often all at once.

The Park Hotel is immaculate and luxurious. Other than it’s superb food, what sets it apart from the other larger chain hotels is its staff, who are all genuinely happy to serve.

The Park Hotel 17 Park Street, Kolkata, 700016, www.theparkhotels.com

SWISSOTEL, KOLKATA

Located in New Town, one of Kolkata’s fastest growing areas just 3km from the airport is the contemporary Swissotel (opened in 2010). This hotel, which has taken understated luxury to a new level, is part of an urban development, giving access to one of Kolkata’s newest upmarket shopping complexes. It has 147 generous rooms and nine elegant suites. Each suite has a large open plan landscaped deck and Jacuzzi. I made use of mine following a dip in the rooftop infinity pool which has spectacular city views. 

There are four restaurants and bars to choose from including the Cafe Swiss - a grand indoor dining option. I opted for the casual rooftop cooking station of ‘Splash’ and later poked my head around the door at ‘Maya’, their exclusive nightclub, but felt somewhat under-dressed to join the hip crowd. Instead I went in search of gifts in the adjacent shopping mall where I found bargains at Saakshi’s – a traditional and trendy jewellers and Fabindia’s for silk Kurta’s (long waist shirts worn over trousers).

The Swissotel is spotlessly clean, and truly luxurious. Even though it’s outside of the city (which makes airport transfers quick) there is plenty to do and see in the shopping mall – ideal for last minute shopping before heading home.

Swissotel Kolkata City Centre New Town Rajarhat, Kolkata 700157, india www.swissotel/kolkata