ISRAEL Separating Myth from Reality

Posted on 08/10/2016 | About Israel

Passion. It’s an emotion that can fuel love but unfortunately it can also fuel hatred. On a recent week-long trip to Israel with a small group of Canadian journalists I would discover and experience both. This was my first trip to Israel. I had my preconceived notions of what Israel would be like from the extensive media coverage as well as talking with others who I knew had been to Israel. Like a tossed salad, Israel at least for me was a mix of incredible historic and cultural sites, cuisines and cultures. From modern highways passing by ancient ruins, to peace lovers to conflict worn soldiers.

A discussion of Israel sometimes brings out accusations, biases and vitriol at levels you normally don’t see with any other countries or destinations. I am half Irish/half English, born in Canada, raised a Catholic but probably won’t make the Pope’s top 10 best Catholics list since I disagree vehemently with many of the Catholic Church’s position on issues.
I was looking forward to this trip for a number of reasons: it is home to some of the world’s most important historical and cultural sites; I was curious to see and experience what the actual level of security was compared to other so-called high security countries; to talk to Israelis and Palestinians on living in Israel and getting a sense of their day to day life; to hopefully experience more the fun, irreverent and daily lifestyle of modern Israel.
I could say I didn’t get a full meal but certainly a sampler of what life was like in Israel as a visitor. It was a taste that reconfirmed some notions but this trip offered up a number of pleasant surprises.
Airport Security
We were warned ahead of time El Al (I was flying on their non-stop Toronto-Tel Aviv) has very stringent security and not to be offended by some of the questions they may ask. Fortunately we did have a letter from the Israel Ministry of Tourism’s Canadian office (thanks Jerry!) which helped. It was far less intrusive than what I was expecting and most questions centred on what we were doing. More or less a painless process though I know others where the questioning was lengthier.
What El Al does need to do is upgrade their aircraft – they were still using old 767’s that still had ash trays on the arm rests, no power outlets to plug in devices or laptops or individual TV screens. El Al is the only airline in the world that serves only kosher food. That was no issue for me.
Arrival and security at Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv was painless. I was impressed with the modern, innovative design of the airport which boasted lots of services.
Tel Aviv’s Pulsating Vibe
On the news we see constant negative imagery of rocket attacks and anguished faces. It was so refreshing to observe daily life in Tel Aviv. Small children playing soccer and other games freely in the streets. Laundry on clothes lines. Young lovers strolling hand in hand. Restaurants filled with happy patrons serving up everything from traditional kosher dishes to molecular cuisine and everything in between. Coffee houses where Israelis and foreigners debate the issues of the day. Beaches filled with sun worshippers and water enthusiasts.
This is the Israel we rarely see on our TV or computer screens. Israelis and foreigners and all nationalities having fun – together. But it does exist – daily.
I soaked in Tel Aviv’s youthful vibe and exuberance. It was not the Israel I was expecting but an Israel so many can embrace.
The Bauhaus style of architecture can be seen throughout Tel Aviv. There are wonderful shopping and restaurant areas along Rothschild Boulevard or the Neve Tzedek neighbourhood with very chic cafes or the Carmel market showcasing artisan type boutique shops or the Sarona market – a foodie’s delight with foods from around the world served up with style.
Modern versus Traditional
Our press group travelled to Haifa in the north and over to Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee and near the Syrian border on the east down through Jerusalem and the Negev desert towards the southern part of Israel. The country is only about 425 km north to south and 114 km at its widest point west to east. Lebanon, Syria, Jordan and Egypt border Israel.
The modern highways and excellent signage would put many of Canada’s highways to shame. Driving through the country it struck me how incredibly modern and technologically advanced it was and at the same time still feeling like you could go back thousands of years. Out one window seeing massive office and plant complexes of Microsoft and Google and numerous high tech companies and then look out again and see a camel crossing sign or an ancient dwelling dating back thousands of years.
I was amazed to learn that Israel boasts more new business start-ups than any other country per capita. Commerce and the entrepreneurial spirit are alive and well in Israel.
Is it Safe to Travel?
As readers of this column know I have issues with Canada’s travel warnings and how they go over the top and people would not travel anywhere if they followed them to the letter.
For Israel they have a few pages of warnings and risk levels depending where in Israel you may be travelling. Obviously in areas near borders with Syria, Lebanon and even Egypt the warning levels are higher. This is true of the West Bank, Gaza Strip, Golan Heights and settlement areas. For the country as a whole there is no nationwide advisory in effect other than exercise a high degree of caution. However, you can find this advisory for a number of countries.
Now the reality of my experience.
In Tel Aviv where yes there have been past incidents (and one two weeks after my visit at Sarona Market) I saw less police presence than in Toronto. Of course, I imagine there are some undercover police lurking about but it definitely didn’t feel like a heavy police presence.
The only place where we saw a heavy police/Israel Defence Force presence was by the West Bank and in Jerusalem especially in the Old City and by the Western Wall. It was not intrusive but there certainly was a presence due to some incidents in the past year especially in the Jewish quarter.
Overall though it was far less than I had anticipated. But we were reminded that things can change quickly at any moment. Our guide Motti had an app like many Israelis alerting him of any imminent rocket attacks and giving a warning to seek shelter at a Mamad. At the time we were having a delightful dinner with a local Tel Aviv family in their home. Our guide did not panic or alert us as the rocket attack apparently was far away.
Still I do find it sad that there is even an app for warnings of rocket attacks. Yes, that can be the reality of daily life in Israel. But smiles, engaging conversations, lovelorn couples, kids playing games also are part of daily life and I felt lucky to now see that side of life in Israel.
Israel is a country of conflict at times but it is also a country of stunning contrasts – from beautiful coastal beaches, majestic mountains, wine producing vineyards, formidable forts and cosmopolitan cities to world antiquities.
I wouldn’t hesitate to visit Israel again and explore its lesser known areas as well have no hesitation to take my kids there - it’s a history, geography, cultural lesson wrapped into one.
For more info: www.goisrael.com