THE BRIDGE TO SWEDEN

Posted on 12/24/2015 | About Sweden

Bridges are inspiring things. For centuries they have shortened travel times, facilitated wars, inspired architects and engineers, and linked communities. But when they link two countries they take on a special significance. On 14 August 1999, Crown Prince Frederik of Denmark and Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden met midway across a very special bridge to mark its completion. The following year, on 1 July 2000, a Queen and a King met. The occasion was the official dedication of the same bridge, with Queen Margrethe II of Denmark and King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden as the host and hostess of the ceremony.

The bridge was the Oresund, in fact a long bridge, a shorter tunnel and an artificial island, that linked Denmark and Sweden at Denmark’s capital, Copenhagen, and Sweden’s second largest city, Malmo. It consists of a two-way rail link and a four-lane highway. The idea of such a link had been around for a long time. It was first publicly suggested around 1936, but wars and naysayers intervened and it wasn’t until 1991 that an agreement was forged between the two countries to make the bridge a reality. Construction started in 1995. It was decided to create a tunnel from an artificial island, at the Danish side, to avoid interfering with air traffic around Copenhagen Airport, to provide a clear channel for shipping and to prevent ice floes from blocking the strait. Once completed the structure crossed the Oresund Strait, or Sound, to became the longest road/rail bridge in Europe. It is not surprising that the 16 km cable-stayed structure is considered an engineering marvel.

By 2009 over 35 million people were crossing the bridge each year. Its one-time toll is high (we paid €46 ($70) but there are discounts of up to 75 percent for regular users, of which there are many, as a number of people live in one country and work in the other: usually Sweden for living, where property prices are lower than in Denmark. In more recent years the bridge’s profile has been increased even further due to its featuring in the TV series called The Bridge. In accordance with the Schengen Agreement and the Nordic Passport Union, there are no passport inspections at either end of the bridge, although there are random customs checks when re-entering Sweden. As we approached Copenhagen on our Baltic cruise this summer we had seen the bridge on the horizon long before the skyline of Copenhagen came into view. Later, on the approach to the port of Copenhagen we were able to marvel at this marvel from the shipping lane that crosses over the tunnel with the bridge soaring on our starboard side.

But it wasn’t until our guests arrived from Canada that we actually drove across the bridge. We’d rented a car for three days and one of these days was set aside to drive to Sweden, a trip we’d all been eagerly anticipating. It is indeed, quite the experience to emerge from a city and then a tunnel into a world of sea, sky, steel and - if you’re lucky - sun. We were lucky: the sky was blue and the sea sparkling and the sunlight was glinting off the steel of the bridge. Quite the experience. With a day to spend in Malmo, we made our way to the Tourist Information Office opposite the city’s main station. My daughter and I hurried into the office for a map and some literature while the guys guarded the illegally-parked car. En route to the station my husband and I had told our young(ish) people that, back in the 60s when we were growing up in England, liberal Sweden was often spoken of in hushed terms as the country of ‘free love’. We’d already noticed the city was festooned with rainbow flags, and in the tourist office my daughter and I learned that the approaching week-end was Gay Pride. Just inside the entrance to the tourist office there was a large basket brimming with rainbow-packed packets of condoms bearing the cheeky slogan ‘Come Together’. “Help yourselves,” said the quite elderly lady behind the counter! We did, presenting them to our men-folk back in the car with a laugh and “Here, for your free love in Sweden!”

Obviously a day is far too short a time to explore such a large city. But the tourist office has a brochure entitled ’11 things you must do in Malmo’ which lists the city highlights. First of all we wanted to see what is known as the Turning Torso which, at 190 metres, is Scandinavia’s tallest building. We had seen it dominating the skyline from Denmark and to stand beneath it and look up is giddy-making experience as it curves its way upwards. Another architectural/engineering marvel. The area surrounding this building - the Western Harbour - is interesting. It’s a new residential area built within an old port where many of the industrial buildings and facilities have been renovated into different usages, giving a cutting-edge feel to the area. The popular beach and its surrounding parkland give additional appeal and it’s no wonder it is a popular place to live, especially for young people. Lunch was entering our thoughts, so we found a parking space and set off on foot into the Old Town. Here are cobbled streets, buildings dating back to the 14th century, restaurants and trendy boutiques. The town hall and other official buildings were all flying the rainbow flag and a party atmosphere prevailed. In Lilla Torg (the Little Square) all the patios were busy with customers enjoying the fine weather, but we were soon lucky and found a table for four for some good local fish or Sweden’s speciality - Swedish meatballs.

Walking off lunch seemed a good idea. We explored more of the atmospheric Old Town, browsed some of the renowned design shops and discovered the canal that runs through the city (where pedal boats are available). We’d ticked off some of the things on the tourist list. But not all. There’s a castle to explore, an aquarium, the Malmo Museum and a Modern Art Museum, but for us they will have to await a further visit. Yes, our visit had been far too brief, but our glimpse of Malmo had been greatly enjoyed and the drive over the bridge is a wonderful experience.