LETTER FROM PARIS

Posted on 09/22/2016 | About Paris, France

With recent news that air-traffic controllers are exacerbating France’s tourism problems once again, and remembering my promise of a month or so ago that I would report on the atmosphere here in the capital once we had settled in, I thought the time right to send a few words.

First, I’ll put you in our personal ‘picture’. After traversing the canals of central France in our boat we arrived in the Port de Plaisance de Paris Arsenal three weeks ago. This marina is located just off the Seine, about a kilometre up-river from Notre Dame and the two islands that form a focal point for tourists to this city.
The marina is, in fact, part of Canal St. Martin, the canal system that surrounds northern Paris. The marina itself, with boats moored on both its sides, runs from the river up to busy Place Bastille, where the canal enters a tunnel, giving boats access to the system farther north. The marina/canal is accessed by a lock off the main river which operates upon request for pleasure boats, small hotel barges and day-cruise boats.
During the three weeks already spent here in late August and on into September the weather has been absolutely glorious with hot, cloudless days. Although not our first visit to Paris, it is certainly our longest and we have taken advantage of the weather to get out and about on our bikes to explore the city’s different areas and to visit some of its famous sites.
I am not in a position to compare from an onlooker’s point of view the state of tourism to the city. Released figures indicate, that to a certain extent, some tourists are staying away. The floods earlier in the year and then, of course, the terrible terrorist attacks have, apparently, had their effect.
Still, Paris certainly seems to be very busy and have lots of tourists. We have heard English spoken everywhere and have engaged in conversations with Canadians, Americans, Australians, Scandinavians and the British, and seen many others from Asia … especially many Japanese who seem to love the fashion shops and the art galleries. There’s still a long line up for the Louvre every day.
The atmosphere in the hot city seems to be just as one has always expected. Pavement cafes have so many customers one can’t help wondering who is working!
We attended the opening night of the American Ballet Theater’s production of La Belle au bois dormant at the enormous new building known as Opera National de Paris Bastille (not to be confused with the opulent old Opera National de Paris Garner which is still in use as an opera house). The modern Bastille theatre seats 2,700 people and on the night we attended there wasn’t an empty seat. We’ve also been in all the major parks … the Bois de Boulogne, Luxembourg Gardens, the Tuileries and others, and found them full of people of all ages enjoying the weather. So Parisians and their visitors cannot be described as avoiding large gatherings.
However, and it’s quite a big ‘however’, security is obvious everywhere. We have seen heavily armed foot patrols of army and police - usually in fours - every day and in every quarter. There are manned security installations near important government buildings. One has to pass through metal detectors several times a day: when entering the theatre (and, I imagine, movie houses), galleries, churches, hotels, shopping malls, large stores. In all these locations bags are also checked.
At one stage, when walking on Rue du Faubourg-St-Honore behind the Palais de l’Elysee (the official resident of the President) we found ourselves to be the only civilians amongst a large gathering of police and army personnel. They did not interrupt our walk in any way, but it was a strange feeling. And our boating neighbours reported last Sunday that the Champs-Elysees was closed to traffic and all pedestrians had to pass through security checks. People with suitcases had to prove that they had hotel reservations on that famous street. Sirens are heard day and night, but perhaps that is not unusual.
One morning recently we walked up to the Thursday food market just beyond the Place de la Bastille to find a heavy police presence and no traffic. This junction is the meeting place of seven major artery roads and it is usually full of heavy traffic. But not that morning. The Bastille subway was also closed. We were, at first, a little alarmed. However, pedestrians were allowed everywhere and the market and its surrounding bars were busy as usual.
When we asked a police officer what was afoot we were told a large demonstration or protest was expected later in the day. On enquiring a ‘good or bad’ demonstration, we were merely told it was an anti-government gathering. It seems demonstrating and protesting is a national pastime in France. As I sit writing this I can hear some chanting and shouting, but I have no intention of going closer. The police seem to be making every effort to do a good job to keep Paris citizens and visitors safe and they don’t need spectators muddying the waters.
Our place in this marina is secured until 1st October and we are on the waiting list to remain all winter. (We have been on this list for three years now.) Our only hope of a place is if there is a cancellation, but so far no luck. Seems Paris is still a popular destination for boaters as well as the many, many other visitors we have seen and heard.
Everyone must make their own decision on where to visit and where to avoid. I’ve painted as accurate a picture as I can after three weeks here and will be sad to leave if it becomes necessary to do so when October dawns. In spite of obvious serious problems it is generally a welcoming city, very beautiful and with so much to see and do.